Set of Azure Dynamics parts + BMW E30 for sale

Set of Azure Dynamics parts + BMW E30 for sale

Due to a change in priorities, I need to sell the parts I have gathered for my BMW E30 conversion. 

These parts will suit any small to medium sized car conversion, or the E30 that is also for sale (see below). Using direct drive on the BMW the 0-100 time is calculated at about 7 seconds depending on final drive ratio. With a gearbox, even quicker.

All parts are located together in Sydney. You don’t have to worry about group buys, import duties and freight costs. I have done it all for you. 

The price is $8500 for the complete set of parts. This is the all up cost including shipping etc. from around the world. If you add up these prices with similar parts from the EVTV store, it will come to about the same price, and you still have to ship the parts to Australia.

Shipping out of NSW can be quoted separately.

These parts have been selected especially to go drag racing and beat other 80’s - 90's cars such as the BMW E30. The idea is to use enough battery to provide just less than 400V at top of charge and sufficient amps to draw full power for 10 seconds. The high discharge ‘red’ headways are ideal. A little heavy, but fail safe, unlike prismatic and pouch cells. 

This kit, in a light E30 or a Suzuki Cary will fly down the drag strip, or just have some fun at the lights.

Here is what you get:
Azure Dynamics / Siemens water cooled induction motor model 1PV5138-4WS14
. This motor is good for about 100kW and 300 newton meters at 300 volts. I am sure it can be overclocked at least by 10%. Specs: http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=1PV5135

Vaxo motor shaft coupling for attaching to a drive shaft or clutch plate if using a gearbox.

Azure Dynamics DMOC645 controller – Already Programmed (controllers usually come un-programmed and normally require a CAN programmer worth several hundred dollars to buy). This controller has an upper voltage limit of 400 volts. If you use 330v of batteries you will be able to increase the motor power and torque by about 10%. There is a lot of support for the motor and controller available from the ev.tv forums. http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=DMOC645 

TC Charger 2kW TCCH-312-5.5 Programmable up to 417V & 5.5A, CAN-Bus battery charger. I can even provide a working Arduino, LCD and CAN adaptor with source code to get you started.

Azure Dynamics air conditioning compressor with CAN bus commands documented. I spent quite some time locating the CAN documentation for this unit, saving you the pain. These are also used in the iMiEV in case you need to compare with a working unit. 

2 x Azure Dynamics water pumps. One for motor and controller cooling, the other for the cabin heater.

12 v Brake vacuum pump x 2. One rotary vane as used in Volvos. One Azure Dynamics piston. Your choice which to use, and which to sell.
Brake vacuum switch – adjustable with hysteresis.

Stainless steel bottle for brake vacuum.

Azure Dynamics water heater. This is for heating the cabin of the vehicle and required for demisting the windows.

Set of male and female J1772 connectors for the charging. This is preferred as you can use a commercial charging station, or with the provided cable, charge at home.

2 x Kilovac contactors. http://store.evtv.me/proddetail.php?prod=EV200AAANA

High current MES-DEA 1000W DC-DC. This is a very professional unit rated at 60A output. Many are 40A or less and are simply not up to the task of driving the vehicles 12 volt electrics for any length of time at night with lights, fan and wipers running. This unit will run your 12 v electrics with all accessories running. http://www.metricmind.com/data/mes_dcdc.pdf

BMW Accelerator pedal. This is an awesome unit. Easy to mount and use with your driver interface. No more unreliable throttle pots.
Details of how to drive the various parts are located on my blog http://malfunction.faed.name

Just add a driver interface such as http://rechargecar.com/macchina, batteries and BMS. My preference is Headway batteries and Batrium BMS for ease of use and local support.

For a further 4k you can buy my white ’91 BMW 318i E30 to convert. This car is currently registered in NSW. It has been my daily driver for the last 3+ years. This car has no visible rust and is a pleasure to drive. The suspension is top notch, has new brakes all round and a M40 motor in great condition you can sell to recoup some of the cost. If you buy the car, I will also give you a factory manual steering rackso you don’t need to worry about a power steering pump. I will also include a Getrag 240 gearbox in case you want to use the output shaft or the gearbox. This also allows you to make an adapter plate before pulling the car apart.

If you buy the whole lot for $12,500, I can load up the car with the parts and deliver for free anywhere on the east coast and fly home.

Please phone 0409 601 747 or email Malcolm@faed.name should you be interested.

More accurate Dyno Figures

After watching the video below I noticed the power and torque were much higher. This was before the tech changed some setting on the Dyno.

I extracted a plot from the shot of the TV screen and came up with the following.

We can see that the Road torque max is 5000N which equates to a shaft torque of 315 Nm.

I think the drive is cutting back torque after the peak at 20km/hr. The nominal peak at 28km/hr is a shaft torque of 283Nm.

As for RPM, The 28km/hr equates to 1178 RPM on the motor shaft.

The big dip is still evident, a little slower at about 52km/hr.

Scatter plot of RPM vs. Torque, Power

(Power is 10x.) The above data was captured from the Danfoss VFD.
This would indicate that the Dyno run yesterday did not reach peak power / torque.50km/hr = 2100 RPM. The motor torque from the dyno plot at 50km/hr would be 2100*.323/5.125=132Nm. This (very roughly) corresponds to the scatter plot at that RPM.
The dyno plot can be for all intents ignored unfortunately. I will go and see them and see if they can do plots at multiple single speeds.

Danfoss VFD Switching Frequency

I tried variable switching frequency (Parameter 412) this morning but it works the opposite to what I was hoping. It does sound cool though!

It increases frequency with RPM as per the manual. I wanted a low frequency at low RPM.

Low switching frequency (Parameter 411) seems to be the key to prevent lurching and brief rear wheel lock up when decelerating to a stop. I could also try raising the stop frequency (Parameter 123) but I didn’t like this set higher than 0.

Tacho Works now :)

Using the tip provided by Johny directing me to http://www.kolumbus.fi/juha.niinikoski/Tacho/Tacho.htm I tried connecting the tacho to the 24v frequency output from the VFD via a 1k resistor and it works a treat!

Useful thinks I can display are:

RPM

Torque

Power

Throttle position

It Lives!

After  a few busy days, the motor is finally rotating under battery power with the drive shaft (tail shaft) disconnected! Quite a milestone. It is running on variable speed open loop at the moment.

For some reason the motor wont reverse, it just pulses at about 100RPM.

Forward works perfectly.

I will add the speed pickup tomorrow. Hopefully that will sort it out!

When testing, ensure GOOD help is at hand.

Thankfully none of the safety measures were required :)

The team. Tim for his safety checks, Noel for a helping hand these last few days, my wife and of course myself in the grey shirt.

Battery box and VFD installed

While I was away last month Geoff from GT Tooling built my battery trey.
Yesterday I installed it and the VFD in the tray. Beneath the trey there are 4 stainless steel square tube cross members to help support the batteries, act as spacers for the bolts to the trey structure and to support the VFD.

The contactors are visible on the posts vertical supports. The connections will be the same height as the battery terminals.

Each threaded rod will be covered with heat shrink to prevent the batteries from being abraded in case they come in contact.

All components of the battery trey are stainless steel.

Next weekend I hope to install the batteries and start connecting them.

The interconnects where practical will be made from copper strip. The rest will be 16mm^2 cable with appropriate lugs crimped on.

The straps to hold the batteries down will also be covered in heatshrink to provide additional insulation to the Battery Balance Circuits.

Controls and centre console

I have inserted some trim plastic from a wreck into the gearbox and coin tray holes in the centre console.

I have fitted a forward, neutral, reverse switch and the display/keypad for the motor controller. I am VERY pleased how these worked out.




ahhh progress.

Update - Batteries - Tester - Diff - Steering - VFD - Tray

It has been a few weeks since my last post so an update is in order. photos to follow.

1. I received the Greensaver batteries (20ah and 27ah - 2 hr rate). The port chargers were unbelievable! These would have to be the 2 most expensive batteries in Australia! Lesson learned about sea-freighting goods

2. I have built a micro controller based charger / discharger. It will measureand log to a PC the following aprameters during discharge and charge Volts, Amps, Watts, Ah, Wh, temperature and the all important Peukert factor. It uses 4 x 1 ohm resistors. The resistors can be wired differently to vary the test current. I am waiting an LCD from Futurelec and a charger from ebay's ecrazyman.

3. I have bought a diff from pick'n'payless . It is a 5.125 ratio from a Hiace van. All going well I will install it this weekend. This gives a theoretical top speed of 94km/hr at 4000RPM

4. I also bought a manual steering box from pick'n'payless for installing this weekend.

5. Better VFD. I bought a better Danfoss 5042 VFD off ebay. So, if anyone wants a Danfoss 6042VFD in an IP54 case I have one looking for a home. I have removed all the AC components from the cabinet to minimise losses and will feed it DC directly to the soft charge circuit.

6. The ute has a tray back which was way too wide for the body. To tidy up the looks I have narrowed the tray to be the same as the body (100mm off each side) and shortened the back. If I need sides I can get them from the manufacturer which is encouraging.

At the moment the carport looks like a car wreckers yard, but things should start coming together in the next few weeks. I am still waiting to borrow an engine hoist from my neighbours.